FAQ

Heater kit and accessory orders placed before noon Central Time, Monday through Friday, ship the same day. Made-to-order wheel spacers ship on the lead time shown on their product page.

Heater kits take 2–3 days to deliver once they ship, depending on where you are. The UPS map at the bottom of this page shows typical transit times, and your tracking number gives the most accurate delivery date.

Orders over $150 ship free to the lower 48 states, which covers every heater kit. Smaller orders ship for a flat $9.99.

Heater kits ship to Canada for $30 or $50 per kit depending on the province (duties, taxes and brokerage are extra), and Alaska shipping is calculated at checkout. For Hawaii, international orders, or wheel spacers going outside the lower 48, call 888-964-0135, text 763-317-0083 or email info@icecrusherheaters.com for a quote.

For the past 6 years we've beaten inflation without a single price increase, but rising tariffs make it harder to hold the line. For now we're not able to offer discounts. We appreciate your support.

Yes. We accept returns within 30 days in new condition, in the original packaging. Please call, text or email us before you send anything back (unauthorized returns are refused) and include a copy of your invoice.

A 20% restocking fee applies unless the item is defective, and shipping charges aren't refundable. The full policy is on our Shipping & Returns page.

Yes. Most owners do. Every kit is built for a specific machine and comes with the heater, hoses, fittings, mounting hardware and picture-rich, step-by-step instructions written for the average do-it-yourselfer. Basic hand tools do the job.

If you get stuck, tech support is free for as long as you own the heater: call 888-964-0135 and a real person in Minnesota answers.

It's a good day's work, but it depends on the installer. Plan on 4–8 hours: experienced do-it-yourselfers land at the low end, and first-timers should set aside a full day. The first install always takes the longest while you get familiar with the parts and the process; the next one goes quicker.

Every kit ships with picture-rich, step-by-step instructions for your machine, and you can watch install videos on our YouTube channel. Lost your instructions? Call 888-964-0135, text 763-317-0083 or email info@icecrusherheaters.com and we'll help.

Clamp-off pliers pinch the coolant hoses shut so you can cut in the aluminum Y fittings without losing much coolant. Less air gets into the system, which makes bleeding it after the install much easier. You can install without them, but they make the job faster and cleaner. They're sold as a pair and fit hoses up to 2 inches: Hose Clamp Off Tools.

Our standard heater unit is rated at 14,600 BTU and 180 CFM, and the dual-fan Polaris General kit is rated at 18,000 BTU. Each kit's page lists its specs and vent count.

Because the heat comes from hot engine coolant, it works like the heater in your car: once the engine reaches operating temperature, the heat is there. Adding a MaxStat gives you another 10–15° of cab heat.

No. The heat comes from your engine's coolant, not the battery. The fan draws about what a factory blower does.

Yes. Every kit includes an under-hood shut-off valve. Add the in-cab heat control option and you control the coolant flow through the heater core from your seat: turn the heat up, down or off for the summer without reaching under the hood.

The fan bearings aren't 100% sealed, so brief runs through mud or water are no problem as long as the heater isn't running. We recommend not running the fan until you've had a chance to run fresh water through both sides of the fan to flush out any sediment. Water getting inside the heater itself isn't a problem.

If dirt and silt are getting inside the fan motor, flush the motor housing with a garden hose at the end of your ride. The goal is to get the fine particles out before they dry and lodge in the bearing. Customers who do this after riding through water have had very good results.

At idle and low RPM, an engine's own water pump moves very little coolant through a heater core. Our 12-volt auxiliary coolant pump boosts pressure and flow through the core, which puts more heat into the cab. It comes with mounting hardware, a 12-foot wiring harness and a backlit dash switch. Not sure whether your machine needs one? Ask us.

We're not the cheapest UTV heater. We're the one designed, supported and shipped by the people who answer the phone. Your kit is in stock and ships the same day. Most kits get 6–8 vents where competitors give you 4, so the heat goes where you want it.

Every part that touches your coolant is built to last: machined aluminum Y fittings, OEM-grade heater hose rated to 257°F (SAE J20R3 Class D2) instead of standard 212°F hose, stainless steel hose clamps and a copper heater core. Add unlimited, free tech support and a 3-year warranty on the whole kit, electrical included.

3 years on the whole kit, electrical components included.

Ice Crusher Heaters warrants your UTV Heater System, including its electrical components (motor, switch, wiring and resistor), to be free from defects in material and craftsmanship under normal use and service by the original consumer purchaser (end user) for a period of three (3) years from the date of purchase. The warranty is null and void if the system has been damaged by accident, improper installation, unreasonable use, lack of proper maintenance, unauthorized repairs or modifications, or causes not arising from defects in materials and craftsmanship.

Ice Crusher Heaters' obligations under this warranty are limited to repair of the product at our production facility, or replacement of the product at Ice Crusher Heaters' option and expense. Any expense involved in the removal, re-installation or transportation of the product is not covered by this warranty.

Before returning any product, contact Ice Crusher Heaters customer service at 888-964-0135, email info@icecrusherheaters.com or fill out the online contact form. The order number must be marked on the outside of the package for easy identification.

Any warranty product received without an order number may be returned at the sender's expense. Postage must be prepaid, and the original dated proof of purchase must be included. Ice Crusher Heaters is not liable for damage in transit due to improper packaging or handling. Acceptance of a returned product is not an admission that the product is defective or in violation of any warranty.

The engine thermostat is most likely closing once the machine returns to idle. Most UTVs have oversized radiators that cool the engine quickly, so the thermostat closes and hot coolant stops flowing through the heater core.

To fix that, we developed the MaxStat, a secondary inline thermostat. It keeps hot coolant moving through the heater core and stops the engine thermostat from cycling open and closed so quickly, so the heat in your cab stays steady, and it adds 10–15° of cab heat. It simply replaces the hot-side aluminum Y.

Your engine's coolant temperature runs in cycles. The engine heats up, the thermostat opens, the radiator rapidly cools the coolant, and cold coolant re-enters the engine until the thermostat closes or throttles again. Add a cab heater and you feel that cycle: hot air, then lukewarm or even cold air, depending on load and RPM.

The MaxStat adds a second thermostat in line with the main radiator hose. When the engine thermostat opens, hot coolant reaches the MaxStat and is sent to the heater first, so you get hot air sooner. Once the engine makes more heat than the cab heater can use, the MaxStat opens and sends some coolant to the radiator to cool the engine as needed. As the engine cools, it closes again and keeps pushing hot coolant to the heater.

The result: once the engine is at operating temperature, the heat stays steady, just like in your car, and you get 10–15° more of it. It's really worth the added cost. See the MaxStat.

No. You keep the engine thermostat, so the engine still runs at its designed temperature for best efficiency. Once the engine is up to temperature, the thermostat opens and coolant flows to the MaxStat, which sends it to the heater for great cab heat. When there's enough heat in the system, the MaxStat opens and lets the radiator bring the coolant back to its designed temperature.

In almost every case, a lack of heat comes from something blocking coolant flow. Check these first:

1. Make sure the rubber shipping plugs are removed from the heater's copper pipes.
2. Make sure there are no sharp bends in the hose. A bend tighter than about a 12-inch diameter is starting to restrict flow.
3. Make sure the shut-off valves are open.
4. Using clamping pliers, pinch the main radiator hose about 80–90% closed just after the aluminum Y (or MaxStat). Don't shut it completely, or air bubbles stay trapped. If the heater still doesn't blow hot, the shipping plugs are almost certainly still in or a hose is kinked somewhere. With the plugs out, this forces trapped air out of the heater core.

Run the engine at 3,000–4,000 RPM until the radiator fan turns on. Then unclamp the hose and let the temperature stabilize. Shut the machine off and let it cool completely, check the coolant level, refill if needed, and repeat up to 3 times until all the bubbles are gone.

The system is simple, with very few moving parts. Once the engine is at operating temperature you should get excellent heat; anything less means there's an air bubble or a blockage. Still stuck? Call 888-964-0135.

1. Refill and bleed the cooling system following your machine manufacturer's procedure. Run the machine at a fast idle up to normal operating temperature, check for leaks, and check the heater.
2. Let the machine cool, then recheck the coolant level and ratio and top up or adjust as needed. If the heater doesn't blow warm once the engine is at operating temperature, there may be an airlock in the heater unit.
3. The instructions call for flushing the heater hoses and heater with a garden hose (shut-off valve fully open) before connecting the hoses to the Y fittings. This removes air and prevents airlocks. If that step was skipped, do it now.
4. Run the machine at a fast idle up to operating temperature. If the heater still doesn't blow warm, temporarily clamp off the top (inlet) radiator hose at the radiator with a suitable clamp.
5. Run the machine up to operating temperature and feel the heater's outlet hose until it's hot. The heater should now blow warm. Remove the clamp; the heater should keep blowing warm. You may need to repeat this a few times to clear all the air.
6. Let the machine cool, recheck the coolant level and ratio, top up as needed, then run it up to temperature and check the heater again.

Heat output is limited at idle, so do all testing at a fast idle.